Heading East Via Opotiki

Leaving ANZAC bay was going to be hard after two wonderful days exploring the area and it was only late on the last day that we heard about the caves located at the bottom of the cliffs below the Pa. With this in mind we decided that we would explore these before we left the area.

Walking back up the hill to the Pa we had been told that there was a set of steps leading down to the caves but had no idea where they were. Quite by chance I spotted them, as there are no signs pointing to them. It’s a fairly steep walk down to the beach with the steps almost vertical at one point. Reaching the bottom we discovered that as it was high tide no caves where accessible although we did find the crack in the rocks (photo above). Rather disappointing that we hadn’t known earlier otherwise we could have timed it better. Maybe some signage by the council would help things.

Figuring that if we couldn’t see the caves at the bottom we could at least see the view from the trig station at the top of the hill. It’s a fairly steep pathway from the part of the hill where the Pa is located to get to the trig, but with much huffing and puffing we reached the top. The view is certainly worth the climb, presenting a great photo op. Just loved the painted rocks left up there.

We had agreed to meet Dave and Nita at the NZMCA Park in Opotiki the following morning so we planned a slowish drive down the road, bypassing both of the toll roads and stopping for a Pizza in Te Puke it was around 2pm when we arrived in Opotiki. Feeling like we wanted to stretch our legs after the drive we drove through town and stopped at the Hukuwai Beach freedom camping area for a bit of a look see.

The freedom camping area is right on the famed Motu Trail. We thought about getting the bikes out of the motorhome but in the end settled for a walk down the beach and then back along part of the trail. Resolving that we could ride the trail the following day weather permitting.

We thought about spending the night at the freedom camping area but with the logging trucks thundering past right next to the camping area we decided to opt for the relative quiet of the NZMCA Park. The park was almost completely empty with only us and two others in the huge park.

Opotiki - NZMCA Park

Proximity to Attractions

Very close to the local main street and just 1km away from the start of the Motu Bike trail and the beach.

Nearest Supplies/Town

The park is almost in the main street it's that close. There is also a decent New World not far away.

Ground Surface

Good firm gravel surface across the camp with plenty of space to stretch out.

Proximity to Water/Dump Station

Water onsite but the nearest dump station is 10kms away. Apparently the sewage system in town is to antiquated to have a dump station.

Outlook from Camp

It's a bit like an industrial waste land with not much to look at. Waiting for trees to be planted and have them grow.

Noise during Day and Night

Mostly quiet but it is next to the main road so the occasional rumble from the logging trucks.

Cellphone Signal

Good strong signal

Walking/Cycling Tracks

The famed Motu Trail is just down the road with rides to suit all skill levels. You can of course also walk the trail.

Overall Rating:

A handy place to stop. I imagine it will get very full in the summer months with people taking advantage of what the local area has to offer.

We didn’t get a chance to talk one of the others but the one we did told us that he was a regular visitor using it as a base for hunting trips in the hills of the East Cape. He also told us that he used to live in the area but like many others has left what he called a “dying town” thoughts that were echoed by other we spoke to in the town itself.

The following morning the weather wasn’t playing it’s part ruling out a ride on the Motu Trail so we opted for a walk through the town. Like a lot of small town New Zealand, Opotiki has suffered from it’s share of problems and has a number of empty shops in the main street. However the people we spoke to all had a positive attitude to the town at the same time as telling us the town was dying. A huge contradiction.

The town is really trying hard to present a good image and was certainly full of friendly people who were more than willing to spend a few minutes in conversation. I even took advantage of a free sausage sizzle run by the local Te Wānanga o Aotearoa who were trying to encourage students to their adult classes.

As motorhomers we can do a lot for towns like this by staying in the camps and NZMCA Parks and spending money in the town. The money brings jobs to the local community so next time you are heading for the East Cape spend a night or two in Opotiki and help out the locals.

What was really encouraging to read was the development of a huge Mussel Farm out at sea with plans for it to eventually cover almost 4000 Hectares of ocean which will bring much needed jobs to the region but this is still in the development stages, so you can do you bit to help now.


Back at the NZMCA Park we caught up with Dave and Nita with whom we would be making the journey to the opening of the park at Te Araroa. Dave told me that his friends Den and Bren  (Dennis and Brenda) would also be joining us in their new bus.

Dave had booked the three motorhomes into the CAP (charges applies parking) Maraenui (#3068) where you can stay for $10 per night or $15 per night with power. The place is run by Bev and Ted who have owned the property for the last 7 years taking over from the previous hosts on the property. Since then Ted has made considerable improvements to the property adding a toilet and shower block as well as an amazing fireplace/social area.

Maraenui - Charges Apply

Proximity to Attractions

Pretty self contained here with a bot to offer around the camp as well as really good fishing, by all accounts.

Nearest Supplies/Town

It's 38 kms back to Opotiki for any supplies so make sure you are well stocked before arrival.

Ground Surface

Grass cover but with rocks underneath making very pleasant surface to camp on.

Proximity to Water/Dump Station

Onsite water and a septic tank for a dump station although please try and conserve the use of these.

Outlook from Camp

Really pretty with the sun setting behind the beach next to the camp and bush clad hills on the otherside.

Noise during Day and Night

The occasional rumble from logging trucks otherwise just the gentle sound of the waves crashing on the beach.

Cellphone Signal

No Signal here for Vodafone and 2 degrees but there is signal for Spark

Walking/Cycling Tracks

Nothing formal but a really ice walk along the beach. The road is probably a bit narrow for cyclists.

Overall Rating:

Overall the score suffers here in a couple of areas but don\\\'t let that put you off. This place should be on your must visit list.

Bookings here are absolutely essential as it’s very popular and they only like having 5 or 6 motorhomes maximum on any given night. The road in is a little narrow once you turn off the main road and the last kilometre is gravel road. Aside from a few potholes it was OK access. Had we not been following Dave we would have struggled to find the place so look out for the green sheds (pictured above) if you are heading here.

With the motorhome settled it was time to set off down the beach for a bit of an explore it’s probably about 2kms from the camp to the end of the beach. We both got quite a surprise when a fisherman on a quad bike came racing around the corner at the end of the beach heading towards us. (no photos). He told us that he had only caught one that day however usually the fishing is much better.

The coastline reminded me very much of the West Coast of the South Island with that remote feel about it, but very pretty and I would imagine it would be spectacular in early summer with all the pohutakawa’s out in flower.

On our return Dave offered to play the role of chief fire starter it was left to me to chop up some kindling, which with the help of a couple of handy axes left to use was an easy job. Within a few minutes we had a roaring fire to keep us toasty. Makes for a very pleasant happy hour.

The following morning Ted gave us a tour of his garden and some of the projects he is working on including the crayfish pot that he is constructing out of supple jack that he has collected himself on one of his many bush walks.

It was also interesting to hear that his beehive produced 15 kilos out of one comb this year. That’s probably more honey than I have eaten in my lifetime. His garden is just overloaded with fruit trees but I had to take the photo of what must be the biggest Magnolia flower I have ever seen.

So after the goodbyes where said it was time to hit the road again on the journey to Te Araroa. For $10 per night per van I cannot think of a better place that we have stayed. That was so well set up and with friendly hosts. So if you get the chance you must add this to your must visit list.

To view the places we have visited click here to see them on Google maps. You can click the links to read the blog about that area.

To view the Ratings we have done for other camps click here 

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